This is not a gastronomic coming-out … but I have to admit that I'm fascinated by plant-based cuisine when it reaches this level of mastery and, above all, of deliciousness. I love the way flavors are concentrated, textures transformed … and the way the hierarchy of ingredients is turned upside down, reinvented.

Eggplants that pass themselves off as scallops without anyone ever imagining they could be so similar. A potato that goes solo, the star of a plate for which I'd happily cross the ocean again.

A sourdough focaccia to die for, an improbable marvel mixing corn, peaches and red cabbage … I'll skip quickly through the cosmopolitan wine list, very clean and just inventive enough.

Thoughtful décor, with harmonious colors and materials - modern and reassuring all at once. And finally, smiling, dynamic service with a kindness that does credit to the restaurant's name.

In short, it's flawless. Definitely one of the best tables of this trip, certainly one of the best of the year too … huge, huge crush.

Tendresse