Rouge is — in my humble opinion — one Marseille restaurant that really deserves to be talked about a little more. So, here goes.

Sure, it isn’t tucked away in one of those trendy neighbourhoods like Les Goudes, Malmousque or Le Panier… but who cares? Besides, rather sedate Pointe-Rouge makes a refreshing change from the same foodie destinations everyone keeps banging on about.

And yes, the rather shy Louise appeared on Top Chef and finished “only” seventh… but frankly, who cares about that either? Top Chef is television, not real life. And the path she and Arthur have travelled is impressive enough: l’Arpège, Septime, Figure… not exactly small fry. But above all, the food here is bloody good. Judge for yourself…

Oyster, cucumber and fermented cherry; meagre crudo, smoky broth and mild harissa; grilled sardines, chive aioli and BBQ tomatoes; and above all, the absolute knockout of the evening: confit baby aubergine, Breton mussels, XO sauce with lardo and the season’s first blackberries. Admittedly, not the most photogenic dish in the world, but what a hit! Outstanding.

After this tidal wave of small plates — and I haven’t even mentioned them all — we went for whole line-caught sea bream, served with a splendid salad of confit fennel and a bisque foam.

And because life needs a little sweetness at least once per meal, an île flottante with caramelised pecans and salted-butter caramel brought this feast to a perfect close.

A few final words: Louise’s discretion is more than compensated for by Arthur’s incredibly dynamic and enthusiastic service. The wine list is excellent, with plenty to enjoy at every price point. And the courtyard out back is devilishly pretty — although you can’t see the sea from there… you can’t have everything.

In short, Rouge was a serious favourite. This duo has talent. Lots of it. It would be a real shame to miss out.