Pierre Gagnaire

The place, chic and understated, is discreetly tucked away on the ground floor of the Balzac, a swanky hotel in the 8th arrondissement. Three stars in the red guide, five toques in the yellow one... enough to intimidate you a little bit as you walk through the door.

From the moment you arrive though, the dining room team, gracious and all smiles, takes you by the hand and puts you at ease in less time than it takes to say it. And, all things considered, every minute of the experience will be just the same...

The dishes keep coming, regularly flirting with perfection, without ever throwing you off. You travel to the four corners of the country and of life itself, moving from a broth with powerful seaweed aromas that transport you to a Breton beach at low tide, to poultry as comforting as an autumn Sunday with family.

The ingredients are splendid, the cooking is perfect, the balance is ideal... The wine list is wonderfully balanced so that everyone can indulge themselves, whatever their preference – classic or natural – but always with elegance.

The service is beyond reproach and yet without the slightest pretension... friendly, attentive, elegant but not stiff... "simply remarkable."

To top it all off, chef Gagnaire is at the helm of his flagship and shows, himself as well, a kindness and simplicity that's frankly astonishing. Moving from table to table at different moments during service, wishing someone a happy birthday with a little pat on the shoulder or offering to give one person or another a peek at the kitchens.

A moment of absolute perfection that makes you dream of being a millionaire so you could taste it more often.