It's hard to separate the Phocaean city from its iconic dish, bouillabaisse, and just as hard to imagine spending time there without tasting at least one. That was the easy part of the equation. Once you've accepted that premise, you have to choose your restaurant and there, the choice turns out to be a real dilemma. Especially since before you start hunting around, you have no idea what kind of budget this experience requires - a misstep would be doubly painful. Between the places that have mastered the art of fleecing tourists, those that gastromize the thing, and others finally that take a different route by championing its popular side, you get a bit lost. All of them of course claiming absolute authenticity for their version.

Anyway. We ate a bouillabaisse at Peron and it was exactly what I expected: something at the crossroads of two worlds - one briny and vibrant, the other savory, deep and umami. The fish cooked to perfection, the soup intense and rich, the croutons and rouille as indulgent as you could hope for, a real treat. The service is attentive, chic just the right amount, and the view is insane. Savoring this little piece of the sea while never taking your eyes off it is really, really satisfying. In the course of my search for the perfect place to discover this dish, I came across a line from Gault & Millau that perfectly sums up the experience of dining at Peron: "you feel among the faithful and the initiated, all of us together devoted to the shared enjoyment of a memorable experience." That's exactly it.