In the heart of Ménilmontant, Oobatz (a nod to Tony Soprano?) born from the talent of Dan Pearson, a former baker turned pizzaiolo, stuns you with his successful blend of boldness and perfection. The place, deceptively simple in appearance, is diabolically well thought out.

The table is minimalist but every detail is considered… what little you find there is laid out perfectly: no cutlery, cotton napkins, beautiful ceramics under the pizzas, impeccable carafes… The dining room, of the same ilk, is bright and pleasant.

Stripped back without being cold, essential. Always in sync with what comes before, a surprisingly short menu but perfectly well balanced… six thin-crust pizzas like in Rome, three of which are vegetarian and one "blank slate."

Impeccable execution, dough (risen for 36 hours) ultra digestible made from six different flours and house-made starter, ingredients sourced with care and in limited numbers. In short, pure joy.

The wine list is beyond reproach, leaning toward the naturalist side with real character, interesting and varied. Even though the place clearly has the wind at its back and we're in Paris (yeah, that's not exactly a guarantee of laid-back friendliness, no offense), the service is relaxed, charming… and relentlessly efficient.

The vibe follows suit in a cheerful babble of diverse languages. Aaargh… so is there absolutely nothing to say that's even slightly less enthusiastic and positive so it doesn't look like I'm on commission?

Okay, let's just say the otherwise promising Pizzookie left us a bit more doubtful about its appeal… Nothing that would ruin an evening with that taste of "I'd-go-back-in-a-heartbeat-if-it-weren't-so-far-from-home."

Absolutely must do.

OOBATZ