Being blown away by simple things is probably one of my favorite things about cooking ... and the Danes, who have the art and know-how to not do things like everyone else, are really really good at this game, you have to admit.

Planted at the top of a big building in Østerbro three or four stories high, Gro Spiseri is a concept before it is a restaurant ... you climb up by a somewhat vertiginous spiral staircase (those who know me know) at the top of which an unsuspected surprise unfolds from the street: a real urban farm. Arriving in the middle of vegetables, flowers and fruits, you move forward on a paved path that leads to a nice greenhouse. On its side, a henhouse also welcomes a few rabbits. The view is crazy ... not New York rooftop style, no, but an incredible feeling of having boarded a vegetable ark moored at the quays of a city.

The greenhouse houses a microscopic kitchen and a large wooden table that can accommodate a good twenty covers. No menu. The single menu obviously draws most of its components from the farm's production and is announced as the plates arrive by very relaxed and friendly cooks. It's modern, very vegetable-based, raw and perfectly controlled. But it's indulgent too. In absolute sync with the image we have of contemporary, mature and totally unpretentious Danish gastronomy. The wines are natural and lively and the alcohol-free alternative offered is creative and interesting.

A magnificent meal in an amazing and beautiful place!