Tyler and Nicolas both worked with me a few years ago at La Meilleure Jeunesse. They already stood out for the quality of their work, their general knowledge and their open-mindedness.

A table imagined by the first and cooked by the second – that was definitely a story that looked promising. "A table," so to speak, because the place – an old bakery in the Saint-Boniface neighborhood – contains just one huge counter-kitchen.

Behind it: the stainless steel of a large work surface, a few kitchen appliances and a plancha where the chef busies himself. Above: the menu, red and black printed characters on backlit acrylic panels, retro style.

If you're familiar with the American northeast, you'll recognize it easily. But watch out, here there are no gimmicks, no clichés … it's the real deal.

The noise, the light, the smells, the vibe and, obviously, what you find on the plates. Pastrami, smoked roast beef, Philly cheesesteak, big pickles, potato chips, homemade lemonade … your taste buds join your eyes on a slide show evening and memories of New York delicatessens bump up against those of the old Philadelphia market.

Anyway, not only is it good and comforting but on top of that, you get to travel for free during lunch. I was happy to see Nicky again … and since Tyler wasn't there, I'm going to have to go back.

Works for me. And you'd really do well to do the same ;-)

Elbow Lunch Counter (Elbow)