Autour de l'Âtre, Grusse (Jura)

What a lovely discovery this little restaurant tucked away in the southwest of the Jura, conveniently close enough to the A39 highway that you can sneak off for a detour on your way to vacation. The setting, a former barn, is all of one piece and welcomes both kitchen and dining room in its beautifully spacious interior, where the décor strikes a balance between sleek wood paneling and vintage furnishings. The hearth referenced in the name, sitting front and center, connects the two spaces and sees most of the ingredients (local and seasonal) pass over its grills—ingredients that go into the generous 4 or 6-course menus. The plates are full of flavor, the cooking is precise yet bold … in short, you really feast here! The wine list is right in line with this approach, championing lively local wines alongside a few discoveries and well-priced pleasures. This lunch stop left us with just one craving: to come back one evening so we can linger longer over this beautiful place and its surroundings, which seem equally wonderful.