Just a stone's throw away, this is a place that could have been my favorite restaurant on the Belgian coast … Well, it didn't work out, they're in France … but so close to home that you could almost say it doesn't matter.

The place, Zuydcoote, is simple, authentic and a world away from the pretentiousness that characterizes the other end of our coastline. I love it. Really. The view is perfect … I mean, at the North Sea, I can't imagine anything better: clear views of the beach, the sea and the dunes. No road, no cars. We're basically "on" the sand. And there's, of course, a terrace so you can enjoy it with the wind in your hair! In the pantry, the products are clearly local and well chosen … fish, some shellfish and crustaceans - the sea demands it - but also magnificent pork, lovely vegetables and beautiful dairy products. Once all that passes through the kitchen's hands, you're treated to generous plates, just the right amount of creativity, perfectly balanced, indulgent, … in short, you really do feast. Even the fries leave quite an impression, which says something. In the glasses, the joy continues: the beers and wines are as well chosen as everything else. Natural winemakers and small breweries are all there on a short but perfectly balanced drinks menu. And despite all that, the bill stings less than the salt the sea left on your skin … honestly, isn't life beautiful? It's almost done but there's still one important thing to write. The team is absolutely incredible. Right through to the end of service, smiles are on everyone's faces and kindness is the order of the day … which, on a sunny day when it's well (very) busy, borders on a small miracle for a seaside restaurant.

This business of borders ultimately matters very little … I really do think it's my favorite restaurant on the North Sea, and that's that.

La Grande Maree