Le Panier is packed with tempting places, but very few of them are genuinely worth the detour… This one definitely stands out from the crowd, and that’s exactly why we’re talking about it!

I can only recommend settling in here for a while.With a few friends, your soulmate, or even solo, a book in hand.Right at noon, so you won’t have to wait for one of those lovely tables to become available, in the shade of the big tree, on this little square along the aptly named rue du Refuge.

The place is surprisingly peaceful amid the sometimes slightly terrifying tide of cruise-ship groups.

Come here for a handful of unpretentious but perfectly executed dishes, incredibly generous and made with excellent produce. Eggs mayo 1.0, a gargantuan plate of radishes and butter, a few artichokes buried under a mountain of grated Parmesan and plenty of pepper, beautiful little anchovies pimped with crushed hazelnuts… simply perfect.

The selection of natural wines is ideal for washing it all down very happily, but if you’re keeping things sober, their excellent homemade iced tea does the job perfectly.

Service can occasionally hit a slight lull, but you’ll forgive them quickly: everything is homemade and prepared to order, with a smile and heaps of kindness… and in any case, this is exactly the kind of place that invites you to slow down and take it easy.

An absolute must if you’re passing through this lovely neighbourhood.

PS: if you happen to be around before 10 January 2027, I’m begging you: walk another 200 metres to the Vieille Charité, where an absolutely sublime (and free) exhibition is currently on show. Marseille artist Adrien Vescovi has taken over the chapel and galleries with a textile installation of rare beauty.

Aux Deux Moulins